Some
useful terms:
bot: the central shrine in a Buddhist temple.
chedi: a memorial mound, usually bell-shaped,
containing sacred objects
klong: canal
wat: Buddhist temple or monastery with religious
and other buildings. Wats are usually separated from the secular
world by 2 walls. Between these walls are found the monks'
quarters and sometimes a bell tower.
Dusit
Zoo
Rama V and Ratchawithi rds.
02/-0000
Daily 8am-6pm
Admission charged
The Dusit (also called Khao Din) Zoo is in a lovely park between
the Chitralada Royal Palace and the National Assembly. Besides
admiring the many indigenous Asian animals (including royal
white elephants), you can rent paddleboats on the pond. Children
can ride the elephants while their parents rest and snack
at one of the zoo's cafés under broad shade trees.
Jim
Thompson's House
Soi Kasemsan 2
On a small soi off Rama I Rd., opposite the National Stadium
02/215-0122
Mon-Sat 9am-5pm
Admission charged
Jim Thompson was a New York architect who served in the OSS
(Office of Strategic Services, now the CIA) in Thailand during
World War II and afterward settled in Bangkok. Almost single-handedly
he revived Thailand's silk industry, employing Thai Muslims
as skilled silk weavers and building up a thriving industry.
Kamthieng
House (The Siam Society)
131 Soi Asoke
02/661-6470
Tues-Sat 9am-noon and 1-5pm
North of Sukhumvit on Soi 21
Admission charged.
The 19th-century Kamthieng House, on the grounds of the Siam
Society Headquarters, is a rice farmer's teak house transplanted
from the banks of Chiang Mai's Ping River. Its collection,
organized with financial help from the Asia and Rockefeller
foundations, is oriented toward ethnographic objects illustrating
the culture of everyday life.
Lak
Muang (City Pillar Shrine)
Sanam Chai Rd.
About a quarter mile northeast of the Grand Palace on the
southeast corner of Sanam Luang
Mon-Fri 8:30am-4:30pm
Free admission
The "City Pillar," northeast of the Grand Palace
complex, near the Defense Department Building, is a small
but delightful shrine, said to be inhabited by the spirit
that protects Bangkok. Rama I erected a wooden pillar,), a
symbol of Shiva to mark the heart of his new city. During
the reign of Rama V the site was improved and other idols
erected. Lak Muang was recently renovated, and countless locals
come in supplication and with offerings for the guardian deity.
Some pay professionals to dance in homage or thanks, and you
can often see beautiful young women in ornate costumes performing
classical lakhom chatrii, usually a little before noon.
Queen
Sirikit National Convention Center
Ratchadaphisek Rd. off Rama IV Rd.
Just south of Sukhumvit Rd. & Soi 21
02/229-3000
Call for the schedule of each show
Free admission
The center is the venue for many new exhibits and art shows
open to the public, as well as the pivotal point for Bangkok's
fastest-growing neighborhood.
Red
Cross Snake Farm
1871 Rama IV Rd.
02/-0161
Daily 8:30am-4:30pm
At the corner of Rama IV Rd. and Henry Dunant
Admission charged.
For a short, entertaining, and enlightening show, stop by
the Thai Red Cross Snake Farm (the Queen Saovabha Memorial
Institute) in the heart of Bangkok opposite the Montien Ho
Established in 1923, the farm was the second facility of its
type in the world (the first was in Brazil). There are slide
shows and snake-handling demonstrations weekdays at 10:30am
and 2pm; on weekends and holidays at 10:30am.
The
Grand Palace
Near the river on Na Phra Lan Road near Sanam Luang
02/222-0094
Daily 8:30am-11:30am and 1-3:30pm
One
of King Rama I's earliest accomplishments was to move the
capital from Thonburi to a more defensible site on the opposite
bank of the Chao Phraya. He chose the center of the Chinese
community, which was then moved south to Sampeng, the current
Chinatown. He intended to reproduce the destroyed capital
of Ayutthaya. The construction of the Grand Palace and Wat
Phra Kaeo were the first phase of his grand goal, though both
were added to and rebuilt in subsequent reigns.
The
palace as it appears today was greatly influenced by Western
architecture, including colonial and Victorian motifs. Anna,
tutor to the son of Rama IV and the central figure in the
story The King and I, lived here. The royal family moved to
Chitralada Palace after the death of King Ananda in 1946,
but it was here, in 1981, that General Chitpatima attempted
to overthrow the government in an unsuccessful coup.
The
National Museum
Na Phra That Rd
02/224-1333
Wed-Sun 9am-4pm.
Free English-language tours: Buddhism culture, Wed 9:30
Art, culture, religion, Thurs 9:30am;
call the museum or check a newspaper for more details and
current schedule
About a half mile north of Grand Palace
Admission charged
Trace Thailand's long history, beginning with the 5,000- to
6,000-year-old ceramic utensils and bronzeware of the Ban
Chiang civilization, then acquaint yourself with one of the
world's best collections of Southeast Asian art.
Ferry
Ride on the Chao Phraya River
Boats leave every 20 minutes between 6:15 AM and 8 PM.
Fee charged.
Long-tailed boats and ferries ply the Chao Phraya and the
city's klongs (canals), providing a scenic escape from the
Bangkok's traffic. One good trip-past waterside temples, traditional
houses, the Royal Barge Museum, and Khoo Wiang Floating Market-starts
at the Chang Pier near the Grand Palace.
Royal
Barges
On Klong Bangkok Noi, north of the Phra Pinklao Bridge, Thonburi
Take a taxi over the Phra Pinklao Bridge or take a ferry to
Tha Rot Fai ("Railway Landing"), walk west along
the street parallel to and between the tracks and the klong
until you come to a bridge over the klong, cross the bridge
and follow the wooden walkway
Open daily 8:30-4:30.
These elaborately decorated sailing vessels, the largest over
50 yards long and rowed by up to 60 men, are used by the royal
family on state occasions or for high religious ceremonies.
Suan
Pakkard Palace
66 New Rd
02/245-4934
Admission charged.
Open Mon.-Sat. 9-4.
The five houses of this serene palace, built high on teak
columns, sit among perfectly kept undulating lawns, shimmering
lotus pools, and lush shrubbery. The main attraction, the
Lacquer Pavilion, contains gold-covered paneling with scenes
from the life of Buddha; other houses display porcelains,
Khmer stone heads, old paintings, and statues of Buddha.
Thai
Classical Dance Performance at the Chalermkrung Royal Theatre
02/222-0434.
Performances held Tues. and Thurs. at 8 PM.
A troupe of 170 dancers performs the Khon Masked Dance, with
stunning light effects and high-tech sophistication. English
translations are printed in the programs and on screens above
the stage.
Wat
Arun
West bank of the Chao Phraya, opposite Tha Thien Pier
02/465-5640
Daily 8am-5:30pm
Reached by water taxi from Tha Tien Pier (near Wat Po) or
cross the Phra Pinklao Bridge and follow the river south on
Arun Amarin Rd
The 260-foot-high, Khmer-inspired tower, the centerpiece of
the "Temple of Dawn," rises majestically from the
banks of the Chao Phraya, across from Wat Po. This religious
complex served as the royal chapel during King Taksin's reign
(1809-24), when Thonburi was the capital of Thailand.
Wat
Benchamabophit (the Marble Wat)
Si Ayutthaya Rd., south of the Assembly Building near Chitralada
Palace
02/281-2501
Daily 8am-5pm
Donation requested
Tourists call this the Marble Wat because of the white Carrara
marble of which it's constructed. It is an early 20th-century
temple designed by Prince Narai, the half brother of Rama
V. It's the most modern and one of the most beautiful of Bangkok's
royal wats. Unlike the older complexes, there's no truly monumental
wihaan or chedi dominating the grounds.
Wat
Bovornivet
Phra Sumein Rd., north of Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd. near the
Democracy Monument
8am-5pm
Free admission, Donation requested.
Visitors can wander along the paths between the monks' quarters
and the waterways, used by the king for water purification
ceremonies. Several kings and princes have been monks here,
including King Bhumibhol, the present king, and his son Crown
Prince Vajiralongkorn. Prince Mongkut, later King Rama IV,
who served as abbot here for 14 years and founded the Thammayut
order, for which the wat is the national headquarters. Of
the two Buddha images inside the bot, the smaller one in front
was cast in bronze in Sukhothai in 1257 to celebrate the country's
liberation from Khmer rule. Several murals depict farangs
(foreigners) in Thailand. The English are shown at a horse
race, Americans are depicted as missionaries trying to pull
the people away from Buddhism, Germans are shown prospecting
for minerals.
Wat
Mahathat
Na Prathat Rd., near Sanam Luang Park, between the Grand Palace
and the National Museum
02/221-5999
Daily 9am-5pm
Donation requested.
Built to house a relic of the Buddha, Wat Mahathat is one
of Bangkok's oldest shrines and the headquarters for Thailand's
largest monastic order. Also the home of the Center for Vipassana
Meditation at Buddhist University, the most important center
for the study of Buddhism and meditation, Wat Mahathat offers
some programs in English.
Wat
Benjamabophit (Marble Temple)
Admission charged.
Open daily 7-5.
Bangkok's most photographed wat, built in 1899, is where Thailand's
present king came to spend his days as a monk before his coronation.
Statues of Buddha line the courtyard, and the magnificent
interior has crossbeams of lacquer and gold.
Wat
Phra Kaeo (Temple of the Holy Jewel Image)
In the Grand Palace complex
02/222-0094
Daily 8:30-11:30am and 1-3:30pm
Take the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Tha Chang Pier, then
walk east and south
Admission included in the Grand Palace fee.
The Temple of the Emerald Buddha, is the royal chapel and
probably the shrine most revered by the Thai people. It sits
within the grounds of the Grand Palace, surrounded by walls
more than a mile long, and contains some of the finest examples
of Buddhist sculpture, architecture, painting, and decorative
craft in the country.
Wat
Po
Maharat Rd., near the river
02/222-0933
Daily 8am-5pm; massages offered until 6pm
About a half mile south of the Grand Palace
Donation requested
Wat Po (Wat Phra Chetuphon), the Temple of the Reclining Buddha,
was built by Rama I in the 16th century and is the oldest
and largest Buddhist temple in Bangkok. The compound, divided
into two sections by Chetuphon Road, is a 15-minute walk south
of the Grand Palace entrance. The northern area contains the
most important monuments, and the southern portion is where
resident monks live.
Most
people go straight to the enormous Reclining Buddha in the
northern section. It's more than 140 feet long and 50 feet
high, and was built during the mid-19th-century reign of Rama
III. The statue is brick, covered with layers of plaster,
and always-flaking gold leaf; the feet are inlaid with mother-of-pearl
illustrations of 108 auspicious laksanas (characteristics)
of the Buddha.
Wat
Saket (The Golden Mount)
Ratchadamnoen Klang and Boripihat Roads
open 9am-5pm
Admission to the Wat is free;
admission to the chedi, separate small donation
Wat Saket is easily recognized by its golden chedi on top
of a hill near the pier for Bangkok's east-west Klong ferry.
The wat was restored by King Rama I, and 30,000 bodies were
brought here during a plague in the reign of Rama II. The
hill, which is over 200 feet high, is an artificial construction
begun during the reign of Rama III. Rama IV brought in 1,000
teak logs to shore it up because it was sinking into the swampy
ground. Rama V built the golden chedi to house a relic of
Buddha, said to be from India or Nepal, given to him by the
British. The concrete walls were added during World War II
to keep the structure from collapsing.
Wat
Suthat and The Giant Swing
Sao Chingcha Sq., near the intersection of Bamrung Muang Rd.
and Ti Thong Rd. 02/222-0280
Daily 9am-5pm
donation requested.
This temple is among the oldest and largest in Bangkok. It
was begun by Rama I and finished by Rama III. Rama II carved
the panels for the wihaan's doors. It houses the beautiful
14th-century Phra Buddha Shakyamuni, a Buddha image that was
brought from Sukhothai, and the ashes of King Rama VIII, Ananda
Mahidol, brother of the current king, are contained in its
base. The wall paintings for which it is known were done during
Rama III's reign.
Wat
Traimit (The Golden Buddha)
Traimit Rd., West of Hua Lampong Station, just west of the
intersection of Krung Kasem and Rama IV Roads
Daily 9am-5pm
Walk southwest on Traimit Rd. and look for a school on the
right with a playground.
The wat is up a flight of stairs overlooking the school
Donation requested
Wat Traimit, which is thought to date from the 13th century,
is known for its astonishing Buddha, which is nearly 10 feet
high, weighs over 5 tons, and is believed to be cast of solid
gold. It was discovered by accident in 1957 when an old stucco
Buddha was being moved from a storeroom by a crane, which
dropped it and shattered the plaster shell, revealing the
shining gold beneath. This powerful image has such a bright,
reflective surface that its edges seem to disappear, and it
is truly dazzling. The graceful seated statue is thought to
have been cast during the Sukhothai period and later covered
with plaster to hide it from the Burmese or other invaders.
Pieces of the stucco are on display in a case to the left.
Vimanmek
Mansion Museum
193/2 Ratchavitee Rd. Dusit Palace grounds 02/281-8166
Daily 9:30am-4pm
Classical Thai dance, folk dance, and martial art demonstrations
are given daily at 10:30am and 2pm.
Opposite the Dusit Zoo, north of the National Assembly Building
Admission charged; free if you already have a 125B ticket
to the Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo
Built in 1901 by King Chulalongkorn the Great (Rama V) as
the Celestial Residence, this elegant, golden teakwood mansion
was restored in 1982 for Bangkok's bicentennial and reopened
by Queen Sirikit as a private museum with a collection of
the royal family's memorabilia. An intriguing and informative
hour-long tour takes you through a series of apartments and
rooms (81 in all) in what is said to be the largest teak building
in the world. The original Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall houses
a display of Thai handicrafts, and nine other buildings north
of the mansion display photographs, clocks, fabrics, royal
carriages, and other regalia.
Wang
Suan Pakkard (Palace of the Lettuce Garden)
352 Si Ayutthaya Rd.
02/245-4934
Open daily 9am-4pm
Transportation: Between Phyathai and Ratchaprarop Rds
Admission includes material for a self-guided tour of grounds
and collections
Wang Suan Pakkard is one of Bangkok's most delightful retreats.
This peaceful oasis was the home of Princess Chumbhot of Nakhon
Sawan. Five 19th-century teak houses were moved from Chiang
Mai in 1952 and rebuilt in a beautifully landscaped garden
on a private klong, separated by a high wall from the tumult
of Bangkok's streets. The Lacquer Pavilion (actually an Ayutthaya
house, moved here in 1958) was a birthday present from the
prince to the princess.
Nightlife:
CM2, Novotel
Soi 6, Siam Square.
Resembles a theme park more than a nightclub, with various
entertainment zones, including Club La Femme, sporting suggestively
padded walls, for women only. Admission price depends on the
night's eentertainment.
Deeper
Soi 4, Silom Road.
Long-running hardcore dance club, decorated to give an underground
look. Free, except Fri & Sat cover includes one drink.
Peppermint
Patpong 1
Chart-sound dance club, popular with travellers and Thais.
No cover. moderate drink prices.
Rome Club
90-96 Soi 4, Silom Road.
Once the city's leading gay nightclub, now one of its most
fashionable mixed venues (except gay night on Thurs). Drag
show every midnight, good sounds and sound system, and a large
dance floor. Cover includes one drink.
Taurus
Soi 26, Sukhumvit Road.
Well-designed place, which encompasses on its various levels
a balconied disco with plenty of room to dance, eateries and
a pub with live bands; dress up. Cover.
Themes for Thai dance drama are taken
from the Ramayana. A series of controlled gestures uses eye
contact, ankle and neck movements, and hands and fingers to
convey the stories' drama. It is accompanied by a woodwind
called the piphat, which sounds like an oboe, and percussion
instruments.
Chalernkrung Royal Theatre
66 New Rd., 02/222-0434
A troupe of 170 dancers now performs the Khon Masked Dance,
with stunning light effects and high-tech sophistication.
English translations are printed in the programs and on screens
above the stage. Performances are held Tuesday and Thursday
at 8 PM. Your hotel can make seat reservations.
Various restaurants offer a classical dance
show with dinner.
Baan Thai (Soi 22, Sukhumvit Rd. 02/258-5403)
is a popular one for those staying at hotels in the eastern
part of Bangkok.
The Sala Rim Naam
Oriental Hotel, 489 Charoen Nakom Rd
02/437-6211
Show and buffet of Thai food.
National Theatre
Na Phra That Rd.,
PHONE: 02/221-5861 or 02/224-1342,
Performances are given most days at 10 AM and 3 PM, and special
performances are held also on the last Friday of each month
at 5:30 PM.
Dinner Cruises:
These two-hour evening cruises on the Chao Phraya River are
strictly for tourists, except the one run by Yok Yor (Wisutikasat
Rd. at Yok Yor Pier (next to Bank of Thailand, 02/281-1829
or 02/282-7385 which is likely to be all Thai. Boats like
the Wan Foh 02/433-5453 built to look like a traditional Thai
house. Cruise starts at the Mae-Nam Building near the Shangri-La
Hotel. A Western/Thai dinner is served .Your hotel staff will
make reservations.
The Horizon
Shangri-La Hotel
02/236-7777
departs at 7:30 PM
Also offers a cruise on the river while serving its guests
dinner.
Sightseeing Tours
Numerous tours cover Bangkok and the suburbs. With slight
variations, they cover the following itineraries.
Floating Market Tour:
This half-day tour is a boat ride on the Chao Phraya and into
the klongs (small canals), to the former site of a lively
floating market. Most of the vendors who sold vegetables,
fruit, meat, and other products from their sampans have long
since disappeared, and the remaining vendors are believed
to be subsidized by the tour operators. Recommended, instead,
is a tour to the floating market at Damnoen Saduak.
Grand Palace and Emerald Buddha Tour:
Because you can easily reach the palace by yourself and hire
a guide on the spot, you may want to visit these sights independently.
City and Temples Tour:
In half a day, you can visit some of Bangkok's most famous
temples: Wat Po with the reclining Buddha; Wat Benjamabopit,
famous for its marble structure; and Wat Traimitr, with the
five-ton golden Buddha. Again, this can be done independently.
The Chao Phraya Express Company
operates a system of ferries that run up and down the river,
stopping at the many piers (tha in Thai) on both sides of
the river . Cross-river ferries carry passengers back and
forth across the river from almost every express-boat pier,
though often from a separate landing. Most tourists will board
the express boats near the Oriental Hotel, at the pier just
south of the hotel, or at the Tha Siphya Pier, just south
of the Royal Orchid Sheraton. (02/222-5330)
Day Trips from Bangkok:
Samut Prakan Crocodile Farm
The compound is open daily from 7.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m.
This large farm with over 60,000 fresh and saltwater crocodiles
is some 30 kilometers from Bangkok. Daily shows featuring
crocodiles are staged at hourly intervals. There is also a
Dinosaur Museum where various species of life-size creatures
of dinosaurs and their skeletons are on display.
Ancient City
Km 33 on Sukhumvit Highway
open daily from 8.00 a.m.-5.00 p.m.
The Ancient City's office in town also organizes day tour
to the museum.
Contact (02) 2241057, 2261936 for further information.
Essentially an open-air museum, this more than 200-acre complex
contains scale replicas of religious complexes, monuments
and buildings found throughout Thailand.
Nakhon Pathom Thai Human Imagery
Museum
Located at Km.31 on Borom Ratchonnani Road on the way to Nakhon
Pathom,
The museum is open from 9.00 a.m. - 5.30 p.m.
The museum houses life-sized fiberglass sculptures of former
monarchs, ecclesiastics and rural folk, created by a group
of Thai artists after 10 years of their intensive study and
hard work.
Rose Garden Country Resort
32 kilometers west of Bangkok on Phetkasem Road.
The resort is open daily from 8.00 a.m.-6.00 p.m.
It boasts large, beautiful, and well-maintained gardens. In
the resort, there is a Thai Cultural Village where an attractive
show commences daily. Thai folk dancing, Thai boxing, sword
fighting demonstrations, and an elephant show.
Samphran Elephant Ground & Zoo
Located just one kilometer from the Rose Garden
open daily from 8.00 a.m. - 5.30 p.m.
This 60 acre farm is another interesting attraction housing
many different wild animals and thousands of crocodiles. Fascinating
performances such as crocodile wresting, magic show, and elephant
theme show everyday.
Ratchaburi
Damnoen Saduak Floating Market
This popular floating market is located some 80 kilometers
southwest of Bangkok via Samut Songkhram province, accessible
by regular bus from the Southern Bus Terminal. Everyday hundreds
of vendor boats crowd the market area in the early morning
till noon. Visitors can also travel around by boat to see
local villages, and local way of life in the countryside.
Ayutthaya Bang Pa-In Summer
Palace Visitors can take either a bus or a train from Bangkok
to the palace. The ground is open everyday from 8.00 a.m.-
4.00 p.m.
The palace is about 1 hour drive from Bangkok. Built in the
reign of King Rama V, the palace consists of various styled
buildings. Thai, chinese, Italian, and Victorian styles predominate.
A Thai pavilion in the center of the small lake is regarded
as one of the finest examples of Thai architecture.
Bang Sai's Royal Folk Arts and Crafts
Center
The compound is open daily (except Mondays) from 8.30 a.m.-
4.00 p.m.
Farmers from Ayutthaya as well as from other rural areas undergo
training in folk arts and crafts here. Visitors can have a
glimpse of how farmers in different regions of Thailand live
and work, and how their products of art and craft are produced.
These handicrafts including weaving basketry, carving wood,
artificial flowers, hand-woven silk and cotton, and miniature
Thai dolls are on display and on sale.
Nonthaburi
Ko Kret
Take the express boat to Pak Kret in Nonthaburi. From Pakkret
pier take a short walk to Wat Sanam Nua where a river ferry
leaves for Ko Kret regularly from 6.00 am-9.00pm.
This is a tiny island in the Chao Phraya River, not far from
Pak Kret District Office. It is inhabited by a community of
craftmen famous for their distinctive style of pottery which
dates back many centuries. Ko Kret pots are known for their
fine, red-black glazed surface and intricate design. The islanders
are the descendants of the Mon people, and they have managed
to retain the skills of their forefathers.
Boats:
Express boats are long white boats with a pointed bow and
a large number near the front. They carry the Chao Phraya
Express logo on the side, and have bench seats and open sides.
Don't confuse these with the smaller, cross-river ferries,
distinguished by their squatter shape and rounded bow.
Boats pull up and pause for just a moment, so boarding passengers
must move quickly. Fares are based on distance. The onboard
ticket taker will ask your destination and charge accordingly
for the trip.. To exit, move to the back of the boat and be
ready to hop off. As on any public conveyance in Bangkok,
keep a close hold on your belongings. Both express boats and
ferries operate daily between 6am and 6pm, with boats arriving
every 10 minutes or so.
Long-tail boats--slender, noisy, motorized gondolas--provide
ferrylike transportation through the inland klongs on the
Thonburi side, leaving when full from the Tha Ratchawong,
Tha Thien, Tha Chang, and Tha Maharaj piers. Allow an hour
to ride on one, just to see the fascinating neighborhoods
across the river. The fare should be 5B to 10B (15˘ to 25˘).
Get off at any stop and take another boat back
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